Review

Sunday dinner @ The Dark Horse, Moseley 

Okay, so it’s fair to say over the years I have been quite the creature of habit when it comes to roast dinners. I’ll tell anyone that will listen about the massive Sunday dinners available for under £9 at The Sun on the Hill (honestly they are excellent, go have one) but recently I discovered a beef roast at The Dark Horse in Moseley that has blown my mind a bit. 

When I visited the pub last weekend I had no intention of writing a review – if I’m honest I was quite smashed and awaiting a fireworks display – but once the food came I had a feeling it might be quite special and took some photos. Once I’d actually eaten the beef dinner I knew I had to tell someone about it, so here we are. 

A colourful and plentiful plate of food, at £15 it’s not the cheapest Sunday lunch but it’s worth the price tag. Let’s talk beef, because at this pub the meat is the star of the show. Rather than traditionally roasted and carved beef here you’re gifted a slab (and by slab I mean doorstop size wedge) of smoked brisket. A more than generous portion, the smokehouse style meat falls apart with the touch of a fork, yet retains an excellent bite. The slightly charred outter coating is delicious and the deep smoke flavour manages to permeate the beef without being overpowering. I’ve never had smoked beef on a roast dinner before but it’s inspired – truly tasty. 

The roast potatoes are unfortunately few and far between and not particularly noteworthy (they could benefit from being a little crispier) but they do the job and allow the magic of the beef to shine. My Yorkshire pud is the size of my fist, and the crispy, light batter has a great rise; I can only dream of creating such a beast at home. The additional jug of rich meaty gravy is welcome with two northern men with me for dinner, and we all greedily pour more over our meals. 

A bounty of veggies are strewn across the plate, but it’s the creamed leeks that standout. Tender and just a little bit decedent, this rich spoonful of finely chopped leeks complements rather than detracts from the smoky beef. An inspired combination, and one that we all agreed made this roast dinner truly unique. 

Our server, Tony, was also helpful and polite throughout our visit, making the whole experience very positive. 

Happily, I also found my new favourite Session IPA on tap: Beavertown Neck Oil. This is a great easy drinking beer, being light bodied and crisp. The pub also has a good selection of canned and tap beers now, so it’s well worth a visit.  

The Dark Horse is also the home of Rafiki’s Cuisine (Tuesdays, 8pm) a slightly bonkers interactive quiz come theatre performance that is impossible to explain but wonderful to be a part of. 

Dark Horse, 145 Alcester Road, Moseley, Birmingham, B13 8JP

*Disclosure: I paid in full and the staff did not know I was a blogger*

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